The Mer de Glace is well worth a visit for visitors of all ages. It is
the second largest glacier in the Alps - approximately 9 miles long, almost a mile wide, and
about 1200 feet deep in its deepest places. It moves about 130 feet every year and is
currently retreating.
There are several ways to get to this glacier. For those people who enjoy hiking, I highly
recommend walking from the middle stop on the Aiguille du Midi.
This hike works for those
who take the Aiguille du Midi tramway (see
Aiguille Du Midi
for more information about this tram). On your way down from the
tram, stop at the first stop (which is about 1/2 way down the tram.
There is a trail that leads to a small restaurant (about a 10 or 15
minute hike
from the
tram stop). This trail is called the Grand Balcon Nord trail. The trail continues on and
is about a 1.5 hour hike to the restaurant which overlooks the Mer de Glace. However, you
will have views of the glacier before arriving at the
restaurant.
Another less taxing way to get to the glacier is to take the steep cog railway which
leaves from the valley floor in Chamonix. This train leaves every half an hour and takes
you to an elevation of about 6000 feet. It runs right by the main restaurant near the
glacier. For more information about times and train schedules call Phone
Number 04 50 53
12 54. The train ride from the valley floor to the glacier takes about 20 minutes and
travels through some spectacular scenery. It is amazing how steep the tracks are. As you
ride in the train you can't help but feel like the train is about to slip backwards or
slide down the track. Before you depart make sure to look at the display of the train
tracks at the station in the valley floor. Look closely at the large teeth in the middle
of the tracks, and you might feel a little safer on your journey!
The train ride from Chamonix to the glacier one way costs 48 French francs, and for a
round trip is 68 French francs. From May through June the train runs every day from 8:30am
until 5:30pm and departs every half an hour. During July and August the train runs every
day from 8am until 6pm and departs every 20 minutes after 10am. Note: from July 15th to
August 20th there is a special departure that leaves at 7 in the morning for mountaineers
and glacier climbers. Lastly, from September through April the trains run every day from
10am until 4pm.
There are several hiking trails that cross the train tracks at particular points along the
track. The conductor will always honk their horn as approaching these trails. The scenery
is fantastic from the train. You will on a clear or partly cloudy day, have excellent
views of the valley floor and the mountain range opposite the train tracks.
One of the
highlights of the glacier is the Grotte de la Mer de Glace. This is an
ice cave that is carved into the glacier annually. As you walk down
the several switchbacks of steps towards the glacier you will notice
the old tunnels, left over from previous years. Some will be almost
caved in, and some will still have characteristics of their original
shape. These old tunnels are a testament to the power and movement of
this glacier.
The cave has been carved every year since 1946. Tunneling work is
started in mid February and continues for about three months.
The cost to enter the glacier is 14 French francs and this
includes a short gondola ride to and from the glacier. There is
a large carpet laid on the walkway, which provides traction on
the slippery ice.
The
tunnel is carved several hundred feet into the glacier. Bring some
warmth and a flash camera. There are several ice sculptures inside
which make a great background for taking flash photography.
Beware about stepping off of the carpet outside of the tunnel. Usually
there will be a plastic fence stopping people from walking on the
glacier. If you leave the carpet you will be in a very dangerous part
of the glacier. There are rocks constantly falling and sliding down
the ice and the outside walls of the glacier are quite steep so the
falling rocks move at a rapid rate of speed. I stood on the carpet and
looked up the glacier and saw many rocks of all sizes falling down
over the ice.
For those agile and wanting to climb on the glacier there is a place
on La Mer de Glace just for you. I should first mention that you can
take glacier climbing and hiking classes from local companies. You can
also rent equipment from local stores in Chamonix, such as ice axes,
crampons, boots, ect... See the section titled
Equipment
Rental/Purchase for more information. From the ice cave, walk up
towards the first tram and then catch the trail that leads towards the
start of the glacier, towards the mountains. This trail will first
lead you to the Glaciology and crystal exhibit. There are truly some
fantastic and large crystals that are found in the Chamonix area. My
favorites are the large brown smoky quartz crystals. This exhibit is
displayed inside a tunnel that has been carved through solid rock, on
the right side of the path. This exhibit is displayed in a winding
tunnel that is several hundred feet in length. I found that 10 minutes
was a sufficient amount of time to see all that was displayed.
Continuing straight past the geology exhibit you will soon leave the
paved path and enter a dirt trail. Depending on the weather and time
of year you may pass people coming back from the glacier with crampons
and ice axes. This dirt trail is about 1/4 a mile and ends on the edge
of a sheer cliff. The glacier sits about 300 to 400 feet below the top
of the cliff. If you are comfortable going down to the glacier there
are metal ladders with rods cemented into the cliff that you can climb
down. The total length of these ladders is about 300 feet or so. There
are several sets of ladders. For example, one ladder will drop down
the cliff about 100 feet and then end on a small platform carved into
the cliff, and then the next ladder begins and descends another 100
feet. If you are here in the summer time you may have to wait on these
platforms for descending or ascending climbers. I do not recommend
climbing these ladders if you are afraid of heights. The metal grips
on the ladders can be quite slippery especially in the early morning
and late afternoon so be very careful. If you choose to climb down you
will reach the bottom of the canyon carved out by the glacier.
Notice
all the huge rocks along the side of the glacier. These have all been
deposited by the glacier. The trail ends on a small plateau on the
side of the glacier. Chances are you will see people putting on
crampons and getting ready to ascend the glacier. When I climbed the
glacier I did not have crampons, I just had an ice ax. This is all you
need if you plan on staying on the dirt and rock that covers the
glacier. If you plan on going further up the glacier to the solid ice
and deep crevasses you certainly will need previous ice/glacier
climbing experience as well as good crampons and an ice ax. You can
walk about a 1/4 mile up the glacier and still be walking on glacial
till (dirt and rocks). The end of the glacial till will depend on what
time of year you are visiting the area. There are crevasses and deep
holes so watch where you are walking.
If you do visit this area, either from the top of the cliff or from
the glacier itself, bring a camera. There are some spectacular
pictures just waiting for you.
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