Even the driver seemed surprised! Bad sign, these guys have seen it all. In the center of the brightly painted wheel, where the hub should have attached to the axle, was a jagged gaping hole. We’d already used our spare wheel and our jack wasn’t working anyway, so we did what anyone in West Africa would do in this situation: we settled in to wait for help. The merciless sun bullied most passengers into the shade of a nearby tree. They sat nonchalantly, as if this happens every day, chatting […]

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