“Turkish hospitality is impossible to ignore”, proclaims the in-flight magazine as I fly to Bodrum. You can’t miss it when you set foot in the airport: the welcome visa costs $20. By the exit, the passengers are greeted by a forest of A4 sheets with the names of the people to take to the hotel. It is nice to go to an unknown place, and find somebody waiting for you and calling you by name: in this case, Turkish hospitality will set you back $40. The A4 sheets move, women […]

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You have to be a little eccentric to live here’ – said Corinna as she welcomed us to her house. To many in the village she is more than eccentric: she is a witch. Dressed in a long black gown, her hair hidden in a headscarf, she is in no hurry to fight the rumour. When the superstitious villagers saw twenty foreign women getting off the water taxi, armed with an array of lotions and potions to fight mosquitoes and prevent sunburn, they had reason to think we had come […]

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