Soon after landing in Budapest, a friend and I were promptly held in one of several contiguous rooms. People from other flights kept arriving, ultimately packing us in like sardines. One of the more curious souls decided to go talk to the well-armed security guards. Apparently we were under a lockdown due to a bomb threat and we were being held until security until bomb sniffing dogs had made a careful assessment of the situation.
After about an hour, although in our tired state it seemed like 5 hours, the doors jolted open and a mad rush ensued of anxious and tired passengers flowing like champagne from the neck of a bottle after the cork has been popped. My friend and I were here to drink some good wine, eat Hungarian food and relax. And to meet two girls, originally from the Ukraine who had flown down to see us from Moscow. One of their friends had just returned from Montreal and made a complete surprise by showing up at the airport, soon after their flight had landed. So there were 5 of us.
I had been to Budapest a number of times over the years, the most recent trip several years back for VINCE, a wine exposition showcasing Hungarian wines to trade and consumers. I remember being extremely impressed by the Corinthia Hotel and its spa, so we stayed here, securing a screaming deal as far as 5-star luxury hotels go. Damn I love travel during times of foolish fear based in little reality emanating from the masses.
We decided to drive to Lake Balaton, central Europe’s largest lake and site where several scenes from the film, Spy were shot. The goal was to visit Badacsony, a small village on the shores of the lake with vineyards creeping up high on the hills, planted on rocky volcanic soils. Apparently once a year a wine tasting is held in town showcasing local wines, with owners and winemakers pouring. This just happened to be held the weekend we arrived. I’ve been long wanting to try the obscure Hungarian white variety, Kéknyelu, apparently only grown in this part of Hungary. Unlike most wine grape varieties which are self pollinating, this variety is unable to self pollinate and requires both male and female plants.
We were told there was only one hectare of Kéknyelu planted in 1990 and today there are slightly more than 40 hectares planted in the region. Based on our limited tastings of this wine, in its youth it is crisp, refreshing and features citrus like qualities – but with merely a few years of age, it dramatically can change and develop additional complexities in the bottle.
One can use Badacsony as a base to explore the region including tasting wines at small family owned vineyards on the hillsides, relaxing by the lake, taking a boat tour on the lake or hiking in the hills above the lake with its exceptional vistas. One can also visit the nearby Lake Cave Tapolca and enjoy a short self guided rafting trip in the small lake within its cozy confines. And be sure to enjoy a delicious lunch at Vizimalom etterem on their deck next to the picturesque Malom-to (small lake).
We stayed at the Hotel Bonvino in downtown Badacsony, a wine themed space offering included wine tastings for guests, a wine bar, a restaurant and a spa with an indoor pool.
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