The Charm of Kinosaki Onsen and How My Journey Began
Illustration by Kaori Akamatsu
Kinosaki Onsen, located in the northern part of Hyogo Prefecture along the Sea of Japan, is one of Japan’s most celebrated hot spring towns, with a history dating back over 1,300 years. Since the Edo period, it has been known as a town for therapeutic hot spring stays, a tradition that continues to be cherished today.
The highlight of Kinosaki Onsen is its unique culture of visiting seven different public bathhouses. Strolling through the town in a light cotton yukata and wooden sandals, while treating the entire town as one large ryokan, offers a rare and unforgettable experience loved by both domestic and international visitors.
When I visited Kinosaki Onsen in spring 2025, I found myself drawn in by the quiet beauty of its willow-lined river, the timeless feel of its old ryokan, and the warm smiles of the people I met.
In this article, I will share the charm of Kinosaki Onsen and recommend some of my favorite spots based on my personal experience. I hope it inspires your next travel adventure.
How to Get to Kinosaki Onsen
Kinosaki Onsen is very easy to reach from the Kansai region and is especially popular for day trips or overnight stays from Osaka and Kyoto.
From Osaka, take the JR Limited Express Kounotori, which takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes. From Kyoto, the JR Limited Express Kinosaki reaches Kinosaki Onsen in around 2 hours and 20 minutes. Both trains conveniently stop at Kinosaki Onsen Station, located right at the entrance of the hot spring town, where you can enjoy the nostalgic atmosphere as soon as you step off the train.
Traveling by car is also possible, but since the main town is best explored on foot, we recommend using public transportation.
What Makes Kinosaki Onsen Special
Kinosaki Onsen is famous for its unique culture of visiting seven different public bathhouses. As you walk through the charming streets and visit each bath, the entire town feels like one large traditional ryokan.
Visitors can purchase a Yumeguri Pass, which allows entry to all seven bathhouses. Wearing a yukata and wooden sandals, and strolling along a quiet river lined with graceful willow trees and crossing old stone bridges, creates a special experience you can only find in Kinosaki.
Each bathhouse has its own history and distinct spring water properties, making the combination of relaxing baths and peaceful walks a signature part of what makes Kinosaki Onsen so memorable.
Public Onsen Experience: Goshono-yu
Kinosaki Onsen is home to seven public bathhouses, and on my visit I chose to experience Goshono-yu. Known for its beautiful garden and spacious open air bath, it offered an experience that exceeded my expectations.
Since it was a chilly day, soaking in the warm water while gazing out at the serene garden felt like pure luxury. However, as I visited on a weekend, the bathhouse was quite busy with many guests. If you prefer a quieter atmosphere, I recommend visiting early in the morning or later in the evening on a weekday.
Goshono-yu is considered one of the most popular stops on the bathhouse circuit, and after my visit, I could clearly understand why.
Strolling Through Town and Recent Events
The center of Kinosaki Onsen features a peaceful river lined with willows and stone bridges, creating a nostalgic and picturesque atmosphere.
Wearing a yukata while strolling through the streets, stopping by traditional cafes and souvenir shops, and discovering local specialties like crab and fresh seafood are all part of the charm.
However, in May 2025, the town sadly experienced a large fire that affected the area.
The fire destroyed five wooden buildings, including some ryokan, and led to the evacuation of many guests and nearby residents. Fortunately, there were minimal injuries, but part of the town suffered serious damage.
That said, Kinosaki Onsen has overcome many challenges throughout its 1,300-year history.
Thanks to the warmth and dedication of the local community, the recovery is well underway. I believe now is a meaningful time to visit and support the town as it rebuilds.
I encourage you to experience the beautiful scenery and heartfelt hospitality of Kinosaki Onsen for yourself.
Local Food Experiences in Kinosaki Onsen
Kinosaki Onsen is not only known for its hot springs but also for its unique local cuisine.
In winter, Matsuba crab (snow crab) is especially popular, and visitors can enjoy it as fresh sashimi or in a traditional hot pot dish known as kani-suki.
Another local specialty is Tajima beef, one of Japan’s most highly regarded wagyu brands. It can be savored grilled or in sukiyaki, offering rich and tender flavors.
As you explore the town, don’t miss out on local sweets and sake. Sampling hot spring manju (steamed buns) or handmade Japanese sweets while strolling, and picking up Hyogo-produced sake as a souvenir, will add to your memorable Kinosaki experience.
Staying at a Ryokan: The Art of Japanese Hospitality
To fully experience Kinosaki Onsen, staying at a traditional Japanese ryokan is highly recommended.
At the ryokan where I stayed, tatami-lined hallways and classic Japanese rooms created an atmosphere that truly reflected the charm of old Japan.
Dinner was served in my room, featuring carefully prepared local specialties such as Tajima beef and, in winter, Matsuba crab.
Each dish was brought out one by one, showcasing the attention to detail and hospitality for which ryokan are known.
After dinner, I enjoyed local sweets and Hyogo sake while relaxing in the serene setting of my room.
This unique hospitality experience became one of my most memorable moments at Kinosaki Onsen.
Nearby Attractions and Recommended Walks
Kinosaki Onsen is a town where literature and nature come together.
One place you shouldn’t miss is the Kinosaki Onsen Heritage Museum, which offers insight into the history and literary connections of Kinosaki Onsen, beloved by famous Japanese writers such as Naoya Shiga and the Shirakaba literary group.
It’s conveniently located about a 5-minute walk from JR Kinosaki Onsen Station.
The museum features permanent exhibits of works and historical materials, along with regularly changing special exhibitions.
There’s also a hands-on straw craft experience and a display of vintage toys, making it a great stop for families traveling with children.
If you’re up for a short trip outside town, don’t miss Genbudo Park.
The striking columnar basalt formations were created by volcanic activity about 1.6 million years ago and are truly breathtaking.
Genbudo Park is about a 10-minute drive from Kinosaki Onsen Station, and the walking trails within the park are well maintained.
In June, the park also hosts a hydrangea festival.
For more information, you can visit this detailed guide to Genbudo Park.
My Impressions and Travel Recommendations
During my visit to Kinosaki Onsen, one of the most memorable experiences was strolling along the willow-lined river in a yukata and wooden sandals while visiting the public bathhouses.
Soaking in the open air bath at Goshono-yu and discovering the flavors of the local cuisine also became unforgettable highlights of my trip.
On my next visit, I hope to complete the full seven-bath circuit.
I’d also love to return in a different season to experience the Matsuba crab in winter or the summer fireworks and floating lantern festival that offer a different side of Kinosaki Onsen.
This town, where you can experience both traditional Japanese culture and the relaxing hot springs, is a place I fell in love with and would gladly recommend to fellow travelers.
I hope you’ll consider adding Kinosaki Onsen to your next travel itinerary.
Detailed Guide and Related Links
In this article, I’ve shared some of the highlights of Kinosaki Onsen.
If you’d like to explore even more detailed guides and photos, I encourage you to check out the following page.
Resort Hiro – Kinosaki Onsen Guide
Conclusion
Kinosaki Onsen is a hot spring town where Japanese tradition and natural beauty come together.
Whether it’s visiting the bathhouses, sampling local cuisine, or meeting the warm and welcoming people, every visit offers something new to discover.
If you have the chance to travel to Japan, I highly recommend adding Kinosaki Onsen to your itinerary.
It’s sure to become an unforgettable and wonderful memory.
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