When Spain made claim to a small corner of North Africa and christened it Río de Oro – River of Gold – the country’s colonial ambitions for what amounted to a patch of sand in the western extreme of the Sahara Desert were clear. With the third glass of mint tea broiling my insides as I looked across the same area of sand, I considered that perhaps my own intentions in Africa were equally unrealistic. I was a week into seeking as much cold lager – … [Read more...]
Gibraltar: the end and the beginning
My original plan for the end of my Encircle Africa expedition was to return to Gibraltar’s southernmost point, Europa Point, where I began. I liked the idea of looking back at Africa with renewed eyes. But all my reserves of energy were spent, and it was consolation enough to know that all that separated me from Africa was nine miles of often still water, after having travelled a distance equivalent to circumnavigating the earth at the … [Read more...]
The Mauritian Chronicles: Paradise Lost and Found
John M. Edwards grabs his “Beachcombers Card” and does Divali (Festival of Lights) on delicious Mauritius, a paradisiacal Indian Ocean isle--once the roost of extinct dodos, now the boast of professional beachbums--which initially he can’t place on a map! “Incredible!” You are from New York?!” boomed Willy Van Damme, a friendly Belgian restaurateur and former soldier of fortune, in the sleepy resort town of Péreybere. “Very rare! We get almost … [Read more...]
Into Africa: Can BushCats Save the Beasts?
“There is an elephant holocaust going on in Africa today,” says Paul Maritz, the last gentleman adventurer. “Up to this point elephant counts have been done by error-prone Mark 1 Eyeballs, and nobody believes the numbers. You really can’t motivate people to take needed drastic actions unless they are convinced you have the facts. And so we need to get the facts.” Rhodesia born Paul and his brother David have created a flying machine they … [Read more...]
Jet Extreme Zambia – August 2014
An adventurous man from New Zealand was traveling overland through Southern Africa when he came across the Zambezi River. He never left. This man, "Bottles" now runs Jet Extreme along a remote rugged stretch of the Zambezi River just down from the Mosi-oa-Tunya / Victoria Falls National Park & World Heritage Site. Bottles designed a Cable Car and had a group of International engineers build it and fine tune his designs. The jump off point on the … [Read more...]
Constant Motion: Ghana, West Africa
Part One: The Edge I walk out the gates that creak in the colour orange. I don’t know if its the rust binding the brackets or if its the ever present sand that causes the creak, or causes the colour I hear it in. My sandals land over the rocks that have emerged from the worn down path. It’s not the sun, but the air, that causes me to sweat. Drips instantly begin to build along my shoulder blades, and the nape of my neck. Soon, my hair will … [Read more...]
Ngoma Safari Lodge Botswana – July 2014
This luxury resort is located in the middle of the bush on the edge of the great Chobe National Park. The lodge is perched on the edge of a steep plateau and features eight well appointed suites - each with excellent views overlooking the Namibian plains far below. You come here for both luxury and relaxation, yet the biggest draw is Chobe National Park and its prolific wildlife. The lodge itself is small and low key yet one becomes pampered … [Read more...]
Lariam Dreams: Malaria or Madness?
John M. Edwards wonders whether taking the world’s strongest antimalarial drug might be worse than getting the dread eldritch disease itself? “I dared to dream with my eyes wide open. . . .” --T.E. Lawrence, The Seven Pillars of Wisdom In Nairobi, Kenya, a man from Philadelphia loses it and leaps from a hotel’s second-story window. . . . He is now a paraplegic. At a Waldenbooks store, an ex Peace Corps worker goes … [Read more...]
Experience Swaziland – May 2014
Swaziland is the smallest country in the Southern Hemisphere - but small does not mean "little to do and see". The eastern part of the country is little developed and populated while most of the people live in and around Mbane and Manzini. Old is a key description of the landscape here. Remnants of the oldest living organism on the planet have been found in the country - blue green algae dating back 3.5 billion years ago, a mere billion years … [Read more...]
Learning to Breathe
Long time Photojournalist Alison Wright has traveled to the far corners of the planet photographing endangered cultures and people. Her work has been dangerous at times - including covering demonstrations that became violent in Nepal. And she has certainly been involved in a number of mishaps in her career. But this story is not about those adventures. It is about a horrific crash involving a bus she was in and a logging truck on a windy … [Read more...]
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