The caving nearby Vang Vieng is in one word, awesome! There are many many small unexplored
caves, and the ones that have been explored often have minimal facilities...usually just a
guide who carries a small lead acid battery hooked up to a head light. If you are lucky the
guide will have extra lead-acid headlights. Unlike more "developed caves" the caves near
Vang Vieng are not improved inside at all. Rarely will their be steps, or lights, or guiding
ropes. The caves are basically still left in their natural state.
On more than one occasion I found myself wading through neck deep water to reach the inside
of a cave and crawling through holes slightly larger than the diameter of my body. I was
always with a guide as a result I never did any independent cave exploration and I never
became lost. Maps of cave locations are sold by some of the tour companies as well as
several of the restaurants in town.
Usually the tour companies will incorporate cave exploration into their days' activities. If
this isn't the way you would like to see these caves, you can certain see them on your own.
Hire a motorbike or a mountain bike and drive or ride to the particular cave. Often a small
sign on the side of the road will be the only clue to the cave's whereabouts. The entrance
fee to most of the caves is about 50 cents US. It is always a good idea of have your own
supplemental light in addition to the guides light.
Several of the caves are within a few miles of Vang Vieng. Cross the Nam Song river via the
main bamboo footbridge (this bridge is also wide enough to drive a bike across). There is a
nominal fee for crossing this bridge - both leaving Vang Vieng and also when you return.
Once on the other side as you head away from Vang Vieng within the first couple of kilometers there are some small caves on the right hand side (towards the tall limestone
karsts). These can be best accessed by motorbike or on foot as they are at the end of very
rough small dirt roads that wind their way through the jungle until they reach the base of
the limestone karsts. These small caves are close enough to Vang Vieng that they are within
walking distance. There is usually a guide present - even at these small caves.
The Tham Phu Kham cave is about 4 miles from Vang Vieng - again take the bamboo footbridge
across the Nam Song river - besides the toll that you will pay to cross this bridge, there
is also one more toll bridge you will have to pay to cross before you reach this cave. Both
of these tolls are nominal payments. Once you cross the Nam Song continue down the dirt road
until you reach a fork in the road (just after the second bridge). At this fork in the road
you will find a very very small village called Ban Na Thong - you will take the right fork
in the road which leads towards the cave. Once you reach the fork in the road its about a
half a mile to the cave entrance.
The road to this cave from Vang Vieng winds through the jungle. Instead of driving directly
to the cave I stopped and visited with children walking home from school. They begged me for
rides which I gave them after trading them a ride for a bite of their sugar cane! I would
race down the dirt road a couple of hundred meters and then zoom back and repeat the process
for another child. These children like other children I met in Laos asked me to give them
"pens". They are desperately in need of writing instruments so before your trip to Laos
consider buying a package of pens.
The Tham Phu Kham cave is located on the other side of a very blue/green stream which you
pay a small amount to cross via a sturdy wooden footbridge. Once on the other side you have to climb a considerable distance up the side of the mountain - up very steep very well worn
limestone steps. Be especially careful on your return trip down the mountain. Once you reach
the top of these steps you are at the caves entrance. Be extremely careful that you don't
bump your head on the jagged low cavern entrance. There are no clearly marked pathways
inside the cave so you are pretty much on your own in semi-darkness as you climb down to
the "reclining Buddha." This is a golden Buddha set within the cave laying under a small
canopy - its in perfect light in the late afternoon when the sun is in the right position to shine through a small opening in the cave (see photo below).
The rays picks up the dust inside the cave a somewhat ethereal image. Inside you may find a guide who
has a headlamp or two. For a nominal fee he will give you a 15-20 minute tour through the
rest of the cave.
After leaving the high humidity of the cave and
carefully walking down the steep slippery steps you may want to consider a
refreshing dip in the crystal clear waters of the nearby stream. This
"swim hole" is popular with visitors. You can swing yourself via
rope out into the swimming hole or if you are more adventurous you can climb
out onto a tree and jump in. Benches and tables are available on the banks
of this river. An out door toilet and a convenience stand selling drinks and
snacks is also available.
Light shining in Tham Phu Kham cave highlighting
Buddha shrine
Tham Sang, a very small cave (also called the Elephant Cave) - is
located just above the banks of the Nam Song river about 4.5 miles north of
Vang Vieng on the west side of the river. It is within walking distance of
the small town of Ban Na Dao - this town is on Route 13 north of Vang Vieng. Elephant cave is given its name because of a
stalactite that somewhat resembles an elephant. There is also a few Buddha
images and a neat plaster "Buddha footprint" here. We actually
found the village life to be the most interesting aspect here. A live monkey
was tied to the tree and would hop upon anyone who ventured within
"hopping" distance. We walked around and visited with some of the
villagers - one lady invited us into her house and showed us the incredible
colored shawls she was weaving by hand. None of the villagers here spoke any
English.
