Ekas, Lombok: Life in the Slow Lane

There are places in the world that demand nothing of you but your presence. No sightseeing checklists. No need to rush. Just space to slow down, breathe deeply, and let life roll by at the pace of a coconut drifting on the tide. Ekas, a tiny surf village tucked away on the east coast of Lombok, Indonesia, is one of those rare places.

I stumbled into Ekas after a week in the chaos of Kuta’s surf scene, craving quiet. What I found was a village that rewards the minimalist, no-fuss sort of traveller — the kind of person who’d rather swap luxury for connection, and crowded night markets for the sound of waves lapping on an empty beach.

No Place Like a Homestay

While Ekas does have luxury beachfront villas, I’d argue the spirit of the place is best experienced through its homestays. I booked one for $20 AUD a night: a simple room with a single bed, a fan, a verandah overlooking scrubland, and a bathroom without hot water. It was perfect.

Each morning, the owner’s family brought scrambled eggs, coffee, and fresh fruit to my little patio. They laughed amongst themselves about the coincidence that the guest next door was named Yessica, while they thought my name was Jessica. Small gestures, but when you’re travelling alone, they mean everything. These moments of being welcomed and seen by strangers are far more memorable than any hotel luxury.

Eating Well, Village Style

There are only two warungs (local eateries) in the village, plus a few attached to the resorts. Both warungs were incredible. After a long surf session, I’d sit down with a plate of gado gado — steamed vegetables smothered in peanut sauce — washed down with a cold Bintang. Honestly, nothing has ever tasted so satisfying.

If you haven’t tried Indonesian food, please do yourself a favour. It’s nourishing, flavourful, and comforting. Think fried rice, spicy curries, and tropical fruit so naturally sweet that you’ll never be able to fully enjoy the bland counterparts from your local supermarket again.

Surfing Ekas

Ekas has two main surf breaks, aptly named Ekas Outsides and Ekas Insides. As a beginner surfer, I was treated to the latter on a small swell day: gentle, glassy rights peeling endlessly over the shallow reef. A small boat ferried me out for just a few dollars.

What surprised me most was how quiet it was in the lineup. Just a week earlier, I’d battled the circus of Gerupuk Bay near Kuta. Here, the waves were spacious, peaceful, and uncrowded. I later learned that local police patrol the break, turning away surf camps from Kuta that try to bring their guests for day trips. The reasoning is that these groups bring their own food, spend no money in the village, but crowd the surf. Fair enough – and honestly, I don’t oppose a bit of space in the lineup.

Slow Afternoons and Golden Sunsets

The heart of Ekas is a single main street, lined with homestays and warungs, just a ten-minute walk to the beach. I never missed a sunset here. Each evening, I’d wander down to the sand and watch as the sun dipped behind the islands across the water, painting the sky in shades of golden peach.

The rest of my days were blissfully uneventful. Fresh coconuts on the beach. Long hours lying in the shade of palm trees with a book. Aimless walks through the village, pausing to greet locals or watch chickens darting across the path. There isn’t much to do in Ekas — and that’s the beauty of it.

It reminded me of Tamraght in Morocco, another surf village where time moves differently and the days are best measured in sunsets, not schedules (read more about Tamraght here). These are the places that reset your nervous system, teaching you that the best reward travel offers is simply slowing down.

Ekas Travel Info

Getting there: Ekas is about an hour and a half’s drive from Lombok International Airport. I paid 200,000 IDR (around $20 AUD) for a private driver.
Where to stay: Choose a locally owned homestay if you can. Not only will you save money, but you’ll also experience the warmth of the village in a way that a resort can never replicate.
What to eat: I highly recommend the Beef Rendang curry at Made’s Warung. Most homestays include breakfast.
Surfing: Boats to both the breaks leave from the shore and cost just a few dollars. There are a few boards available for hire in the village, but if you’re after quality, I recommend brin

ging your own. The water is warm enough that you don’t need a wetsuit, but make sure you have plenty of sunscreen.
Respect the culture: Lombok is predominantly Muslim. Around the village, it’s respectful to cover up a little more than you might at the beach.

Parting Words

Ekas isn’t the kind of place that tries to impress you with swanky cafes and boutique yoga studios. It’s raw and rugged and authentic in its tropical village charm. And in an age of globalisation and gentrification, that’s what we need to prioritise more of.

If you travel here, travel gently. Support the small warungs, stay in the homestays, and respect the people who make this village what it is. In return, Ekas will offer you something far greater than ticking off a bucket list: a reminder of how meaningful life can be when you let go of all the noise.