With 2015 fast approaching (seems like I just wrote this in regards to the start of this year!), there are a few places I would like to highlight as being high on my list of places to visit in 2015. I chose these in particular because of the range of experiences offered, inspiring natural beauty and diversity of foods or cultural activities. I have been fortunate to have visited each of these more than once. I love the freedom of independent … [Read more...]
Rila Monastery – November 2014
Rila Monastary is located about 2 hours outside of Sofia, the capital city. You can hire a taxi (be sure to bargain - and note that hiring taxis from public transportation places such as bus or train stations are usually higher in price), take a bus or go with a number of Bulgarian based tour companies that visit the monastery (Traventuria, Tandem Travel, Bulgaria-Guide). The road past the small village of Rila is narrow and winds up a river … [Read more...]
A Quick Stopover in Kiev, Ukraine
These days, with WiFi commonly available while on the go, Independent travel has certainly become "easier". After arriving at the massive central train station in Kiev, I simply typed the words "hotel" and "hostel" in Google maps and immediately a number of properties popped up within walking distance. This can take a bit of "adventure" out of raw Independent travel - simply removing all human contact. I didn't need to try and talk to anyone for … [Read more...]
Vulgar Wheat: A Trace of Thrace Bugaria
John M. Edwards chows down on subpar "Vulgarian" grub and survives a dangerous dispute over a restaurant bill in the Balkans. Oh well, there is always the region's lip-smacking yogurt. . . . Bulgaria has by far the best yogurt in the world, partly because they invented it. They also are (supposedly) responsible for the regional cuisine shared by many of its neighbors: Bulgar wheat, stuffed grape leaves, baklava, kebabs, goat cheese, and … [Read more...]
BASQUE CASE: Separation Anxiety in the Pyrenees
“Before God was God and boulders were boulders, Basques were already Basques.” --Basque proverb A merry little trip to the Basque Country, an autonomous utopia containing a bit of both France and Spain is like trying to find the original site of the Garden of Eden, which Basques claim might be hidden in their unrecognized “country”: Euskadi! Inching along in your rented Renault time machine on the high mountain passes through the … [Read more...]
10 Foods You Have to Try in Kyoto
Japanese cuisine has a rich and storied history based as much upon the unique culture of the region and nation as it is upon its native foods. For any traveller looking to experience the heart and soul of Japan, the mouth and stomach are an ideal place to start, especially in the city of Kyoto. If you’re looking to travel to and book accommodations in Kyoto, do so with each of your meals in mind, as the foods, dishes and styles of eating in … [Read more...]
Passage to Burma, by Scott Stulberg
Acclaimed Photographer Scott Stulberg has recently released a photography table top book - "Passage to Burma". This is a collection of vivid and often intimate looks into the second largest country in Southeast Asia - a country that the western world often knows little about - especially after it has been "closed" for half a century. This collection is based upon many trips he made to Burma over more than 10 years. It is a tribute and his love … [Read more...]
A Trace of Thrace: Balkan Adventure
In Plovdiv, Bulgaria, John M. Edwards snitches on the mystery-shrouded Balkans’ best-kept secret: an ancient (and enduring) heresy I was on the way slow train from Budapest through the Balkans, on my way to Bulgaria, chainsmoking and guzzling Egri Bikavier (Bull’s Blood) wine, when the train came to a juddering halt and was boarded by heavily armed Serbian soldiers. A Serb with an impressive handlebar moustache and an assault rifle demanded … [Read more...]
Kutna Hora and the Chapel of Bones
John M. Edwards mispronounces the naughty-sounding destination “Kutna Hora” at a train station in Prague, a surreal stage set straight out of the Quentin Tarantino/Eli Roth shocker “HOSTEL,” set in Slovakia but filmed in the Czech Republic. . . . At Hlavni Nadrazi, Prague’s main train station, the large ugly lady in Aeroflot chic flinched when I ordered a roundtrip to the naughty-sounding “Kutna Hora,” mispronouncing my destination on purpose. … [Read more...]
A Glimpse of Paris
With the third and possibly final movie, Before Midnight recently released it is worth a reflection on a few of my experiences and sightseeing stops during my last time touring this much loved city. Paris is a major European hub city with two International airports, Charles De Gaulle Airport (named after a French General) and Orly. Charles De Gaulle is the primary airport for International flights and Flights to Paris from around the world … [Read more...]