This following is an attraction that can easily be substituted
for any outskirts area of the city of Oaxaca. This attraction is not one particular site
but encompasses everything that one experiences when one does this. One day I decided to
walk due west and see where I ended up. I walked for about 30 minutes. I passed by the
Mercado de Abastos and then walked along an extremely polluted river, an ecological
disaster so to speak. I spent a while here watching people wade back and forth across the
river. I watched several people use the soil behind small bushes as a bathroom. I watched
the wind whip up plastic bags, towels, and paper and send them flying across the river.
There was trash everywhere. I had purchased a tropical fruit called a Cherimoya at the
mercado just before walking along the river. I decided this was as good as any spot to eat
the fruit. I sat down among the filth and proceeded to cut open what I thought was going
to be a good snack. I opened the inside and upon quick inspection decided that it looked
good to eat. I proceeded to eat it and several minutes went by before I finally noticed
that something was crawling out of the inside. Then I soon noticed that something was
flying out of the skin of this fruit. The fruit was infected with maggots, worms, and
flies and at that point I decided I had, had enough and continued on.
I crossed the long yellow bridge that leads from the back side of the Mercado de Abastos
to the other side of river. Apparently people used the banks below the river as their
trash can for it was littered with plastic and garbage. I kept walking west.
Across the river the roads soon began to climb steep hills. I continued on one road until
it became narrower and narrower and soon it turned into a decent foot path. The path
finally reached a dirt road that cut across the hills on the western most limits of the
city. Near the intersection of the path and the road were 4 elderly looking men drinking
beer. They were sitting next to a gated wall that closed in front of an opening that went
into a hill. They saw me, offered me a beer and when I politely refused, they told me that
they would let me into their cave.
I was slightly curious and accepted. Once past the gate I entered a long cave that ended
about 50 feet into the mountain. Here was a statue of one of Oaxaca's patron saints and
pictures and flowers were situated at her feet. This grotto was well worth the hike and I
stumbled onto something that was not listed in the tour books. After I left the cave I
talked to these people for several minutes. I soon met some school children who were
extremely pleased to have their pictures taken. I met several other people and talked to
them for a while.
Excursions such as the one mentioned above are spontaneous and are a good way to have new
experiences and meet the local people.
El Tule is located about 7 miles west of Oaxaca along the road that leads to
Mitla. My
tour driver first showed my the grandchild of the large tree and then he led me to believe
that another tree was actually the El Tule. I was quite impressed but then he informed me
that this large tree was just the child and as he rounded the corner I saw the largest
tree that I have ever seen. The Moreton Bay Fig tree in Santa Barbara, Ca is dwarfed by
this one. This tree is not the tallest in the world. That distinction belongs to the great
Redwoods in the western United States. Although this tree is quite tall what is most
impressive is its incredible girth. Its age is also quite impressive. It is between 2500
and 3000 years old. This tree can easily be viewed from the surrounding streets but in
order to get the best pictures you have to enter a courtyard that surrounds the behemoth
tree. In order to do this there is an entrance fee of 2 pesos.
Teotitlan Del Valle is a small town known for its famous rugs. In fact this is one of
Mexico's most famous weaving villages. It is located about 19 miles west of Oaxaca about 2
miles off on another road off of the main road. Near the turnoff for this village is a
small farm and several homes on the left side of the road. A stop here is a must. Ask the
owner to give you a tour of his die farm. This farm is one of the last in Mexico that
still use insects to make Cochineal die for their rugs. Most of the other rug makers use
synthetic dies and polymers. As you walk through this rug makers home, gardens, and work
areas you will see how the ancient art of rug making is still being preserved. He grows
many prickly pear cactus. If you take a closer look at these leaves you will see some
small grayish looking round insects. Pick one of these off of the leaves and squeeze it.
You will see lots of purple liquid flowing out. This is the color of the die before it is
processed.
Have the owner show you where he cultivates these insects. He picks the leaves from the
cactus and brings them into a small rearing area. In here the insects are placed on the
leaves and allowed to reach maturity. There are literally hundreds of cactus leaves
hanging in this room. Next door are the pots that contain the liquid from the insects. The
colors are all different based on pH. Some are quite alkaline and some are quite basic.
The owner has his display room right next to his work areas. If you show any interest at
all in his rugs he will take the rugs and lay them on the ground for you to look at. His
prices were comparable to the synthetic rugs.
The town of Teotitlan Del Valle is slightly more prosperous then other small towns in the
vicinity of the city of Oaxaca. This is because people come from all over to purchase
their rugs. The main street is home to most of the rug vendors in town. There are several
other vendors on the side streets. The best way to see these is to walk these streets and
chances are you will see some of these shops. If you don't see the shops you will
certainly be seen by the vendors and they will invite you in to their shop.
Like most of the towns in this area only the main street is paved. You may find it
interesting to wander some of the dirt side streets. You never know what you will see or
what you will experience on these streets.
The city of Tlacolula is located about 25 miles east of the city of
Oaxaca. There is a
beautiful church built in Moorish style in the 16th century. It is known as the Chapel of
Silver and contains some intricate carvings. The Sunday markets held in this town are well
known and are almost as big as some of the Oaxacan markets.
El Mirador is a scenic observation deck overlooking the city of Oaxaca. It is located on
Fortin Hill which is within walking distance of the zocalo. This walk will probably take
about 25 minutes as it is 12 blocks from the zocalo. If you are walking to this
observation deck you have the opportunity to take Las Escaleras del Fortin, hundreds of
steps that pass by homes and shade trees.
Al Parque
Comunal is located north of the city of Oaxaca. It is about a 1.5
hour walk from the zocalo. Just keep heading north towards the tallest
mountain that you can see. There are buses that run to this park, or
you could take a taxi. This is an area where you can get a real feel
for the land. You are completely out of the city and there are no
homes anywhere. Its amazing that only 15 or 20 minutes you can be
completely out of the hub bub of the city and out in the wilds.
Besides at the entrance the only people I met at this park were
several goat herders up in the hills. There are several trails in the
park that lead toward the base of the tallest mountains. Aside from
being a relaxing place to read a book and enjoy nature there are not a
lot of sights or attractions here.
