Heli-Skiing: An Incredible Way to Experience the Andres Mountains "Never Summer" is a motto for some of us winter sports enthusiasts, and if you're like one of us, heading to South America in the summer is the perfect way to scratch your "winter sport" itch. Ski Trip in Chile I planned a ski trip to Chile in August 2022, which was incredible. The highlight of the trip was, of course, heli-skiing. Although we tried to heli-ski at Ski … [Read more...]
Hands-on Ecuadorian Artisans Are Hands-Down Amazing
Photo by Alice Bourget [Note: this piece was written in pre-pandemic days, first accepted by the LA Times, but had a couple of long publication delays. And then the pandemic arrived. Ecuador was hit hard. Milton’s tours, listed at the end, are suspended. Here’s to travel to come!] When I was around 10, I tagged along to my brother’s Boy Scout meeting, where one activity was making art projects. Given instruction, I sprayed a clothespin with … [Read more...]
Brazilian Cachaça trip Day 11: Curitiba and Brasilia
When visiting Curitiba, any individual or group that has an interest in cachaça must visit Orlando Regis. It just so happened that while I was in Morretes, Bruna Gomes of Porto Morretes had suggested that I go visit Orlando, since I had time on my last day before my trip back to Brasilia. Thanks to her, I was able to set up some time with him. Orlando Regis and his wife have one of the largest collections of cachaça in the country. At over … [Read more...]
Cachaça trip Day 10: Morretes
I repeated my morning walk around town, came back and ate breakfast, and headed out to Porto Morretes, traversing the same dangerous road that I had the previous day. This time, however, I had an appointment. When I got to the gates and pressed the buzzer, I was let in to the very private facility. The winding dirt driveway led to a modern, large facility, where workers scurried about from place to place. I was met at the main office by Bruna … [Read more...]
Cachaça trip Day 9: Morretes
Morning in Morretes. I left the pousada because I woke early. Breakfast wouldn’t be served until eight. Clouds covered the not-so-distant-mountains, but the city was sunny. I walked along the quiet main road. People passed me on their way to work. Schoolchildren carried backpacks, walking in groups, excited for the school day. I crossed over the river on a slight bridge that carried the occasional car. Descending the opposite bank, I walked … [Read more...]
Brazilian Cachaça trip Day 8: Curitiba and Morretes
I was up before dawn, checked out, and on the road while Itajaí slept. My flight was at 9 am, and I made it to the airport by 7:30. I was going to miss Santa Catarina, knowing that I hadn’t gotten to see all that I wanted. But I was on to Parana, flying into Curitiba by way of Congonhas Airport in São Paulo. All my flights went smoothly, even in the busy domestic airport in Sao Paulo. By the time I landed in Curitiba, amidst the fog and rain, … [Read more...]
Brazilian Cachaça trip day 7: Luis Alvez and Itajaí
I’d been on the road for a week when I woke up in Itajaí, my last full day in Santa Catarina. The storm clouds had cleared and there were people getting in their morning exercise along the dishwater gray beach. An old couple sat on a park bench holding hands. I was on my way back to Luis Alvez to take a look at the fermentation and distillation processes. It was rush hour when I left. The city moved languidly around me as I maneuvered over … [Read more...]
Brazilian Cachaça trip, Days 5 and 6: Florianopolis, Itajai, Luis Alves, Santa Catarina
I departed Nova Petropolis at 6:30 am. There were so many more things to see in Rio Grande do Sul, of that I was sure. But I had to get on the road, appreciate the tight curves and tailgaters for one last time. The nearly two hour drive back to the airport in Porto Alegre was relatively uneventful, fortunately. I’d chosen to fly with Gol for my entire trip, though I realized after I bought my tickets that it might have been better to mix up my … [Read more...]
Brazilian Cachaça Trip, Day 4: Harmonie Schnapps and Velho Alambique
On Friday morning, I headed to Harmonie Schnapps. I’d set up this visit before I’d left Brasilia and was excited to visit a distillery that had received so much praise from members of the cachaça community. Harmony, was a short, pleasant drive from Nova Petropolis. I left the clogged main roads and found myself on tranquil, well-maintained thoroughfares. Google hadn’t steered me wrong yet, and a little before 9:30 am, I saw that I was but a … [Read more...]
Pan-Atlantic Adventures in the Rainforest
A sense of dread seeps from my shoulders down to my knees. I tried to pull and shake the bolt, each time more frantically. And just like that, I was trapped in a corrugated steel toilet in front of my husband and a group of 8 people I didn’t know. Outside the toilet I had another problem. Happy tourists with an easy confidence introduced themselves to me and made light conversation. I edged my way through them to stand in comfortable silence … [Read more...]
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