Founded in 1973, this French restaurant is a must try when visiting Port Vila in Vanuatu. Older then the country itself, features a lounge area, smoking and non smoking seating – sizable there is plenty of space to spread out. Owner, Clement Martinez (came to Vanuatu in 1969) is an affable character who likes to circle among the patrons taking time to visit with guests.
Known for their fruit bat, otherwise known as the flying fox. This dish can take some time to prepare, after 45 minutes or an hour, Clement may come forth and say something like, “good news, we have finally caught a fruit bat for you and your meal is currently being prepared”. Very French in style, cooked in a thick red wine based sauce along with the animal’s own guts.
Don’t expect a small bat, fruit bats are sizable with plenty of meat and lots of odd looking bones to keep you on your toes as you dig through this delicacy. Gamey but very soft meat. Other popular dishes include the onion soup, wild pigeon and lobster – also steak and other seafood options. After you are finished with your meal cleanse your palate with the memorable lime sorbet liberally soaked in vodka.
And the restaurant is of historical significance, it is where Vanuatu’s Constitution was first drafted in 1979.
I first dined in L’Houstalet in 1976 with my French scientist colleagues (ORSTOM/IRD) and last time in 2023, alone. I think I had a nice chat with Clement that last time. A very pleasant and low-key guy who I hope is still going. At least in the earlier years, it was a place where we would go in a group of to 12 mostly French people and have a fine time with no pressure to finish and leave. The French people liked it because it was and remains so French and interesting in some way that I am not able to really characterize. Just the thing the French have that the rest of us do not..
There are enough dishes that are kind of unfamiliar to non-French that you have an opportunity to explore a bit. I seem to remember having les reins, flying fox, and, I think, maybe les tripes, which are excellent made the French way. I am not sure that you can find pigeon farci anywhere else in Vanuatu these days.
Anyhow I just want to strongly recommend L’Houstalet in honor of Clement and all the good memories of my friends who were there with me over the years.
Au revoir L’Houstalet.