Bagan is the land of ancient temples – these stone spires dot the dusty landscape of what is called the Bagan Plains. We are visiting in the middle of winter, yet the temperatures are very warm during the day and pleasant at night; apparently rain has not fallen here for weeks. Coming from Inle Lake, some 6 hours away by bus we were startled by the dramatic difference in landscape. Inle Lake has plenty of water – in fact villages are built above water at the edges of the lake – we saw numerous rice fields and the vegetation was noticeably green and thriving. But Bagan is dry this time of year – without all the lakes or waterways like at Inle Lake. What look to be thorn trees dot the dusty flat landscape; the terrain reminds me of parts of Eastern Africa.
Visitors to Bagan can stay in a number of areas in the region including New Bagan and the community spread out to the northeast of Old Bagan along Anawrahta Road. Regardless of where you book your hotel in either areas, you won’t be to far from all the comforts that a visitor needs (restaurants, transportation, tour operators etc).
In a new twist for me – I spotted electric bikes for rent right next to our guesthouse (Shwe Na Di Guest House) – and because it was already mid morning we were able to bargain the price down to $3 for an all day bike rental. Assured they would not run out of charge (same size as a regular scooter) we soon took off exploring dusty roads and small pagodas (of which there are more then 2000 still standing in the region – down from about 10,000 in the 1100’s).
One is not allowed to climb up the outside of the pagodas (other then a very few exceptions) but we found one in the middle of nowhere with narrow steep steps leading up to the second floor. We made our way up for picturesque 360 degree views. We wanted to come back here for sunrise – combined with hundreds of hot air balloons, the visual in the early am is ethereal. The alarm clock went off but sleep overtook the ringing annoyance and we never made it for sunrise.
And speaking of hot air balloons, a ride in one usually lasts 45 minutes to an hour and if you have the budget for it, will probably be the most expensive activity you participate in while visiting Myanmar. During our visit rides were running $350 to $450 per person – we noticed a number of the balloon companies we researched are headquartered overseas. As tourism develops hopefully more will be owned by Myanmar companies.
However we did experience a gorgeous sunrise from a hill in the middle of the Bagan Plains.
A must visit is the Ananda Temple – first constructed in the year 1105. This is a very popular site accessed via a dirt road. Four impressive Buddhas are located inside the temple.
Bupaya Pagoda next to the banks of the Irrawaddy River looks new – and it is – but in actuality until fairly recently (1975) it was one of the oldest structures in the area having been built around the year 850. A major earthquake destroyed this in 1975. Unfortunately another major earthquake in 2016 destroyed 400 temples in the region.
And for beautiful views of the Irrawaddy River come to the King Sithu Restaurant near the city of Bagan – with optimal time to visit in the early evening just before the sun sets over the river.
Mt. Popa is a temple located on the top of a prominent mountain which while not tall, as you approach it you see that it towers over the nearby landscape and local villages. This is a half day trip from Bagan and numerous Bagan based tour operators offer this side excursion as part of a shared mini van ride.
The temple is reached via a long set of 777 steps – I made it to the top in about 8 minutes – running most of the way. One needs to remove their shoes near the bottom – on the way up one passes numerous people with brooms in hand continuously sweeping the steps. Several levels are located at the top as are waiting monkeys ready to strip any sort of food item from your hand. Look at them in the eyes and they will think you want to give them food and they may jump on you.
A friend recently visited San Francisco and told me about her time eating at the Burma Superstar Restaurant. So imagine my surprise when I spotted a marble plaque etched with “Burma Superstar Restaurant, San Francisco, 2012”. The world is a small one sometimes.
The views from the top are nice – but the views from the village across from the temple are even more impressive.
Bagan
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- View from small pagoda of the Bagan Plains
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- Climbing up through a small pagoda to the second level
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- The incredible Ananda Temple
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- Cattle crossing a dirt road
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- Various forms of transportation on dirt roads in the Bagan Plains
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- Herding cattle after sunset
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- Astute visitors will spot this sign among the chaos of the roads
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- The Bupaya Pagoda along the banks of the Irrawaddy River
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- Burmese food
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- Impressive temple in the Bagan Plains
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- The King Sithu Restaurant overlooking the Irrawaddy River
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- Hanging puppets decorate parts of the sides of roads
Mt. Popa
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- Mt Popa
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- Farmer overseeing plowing by hand with a wooden plow
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- This sunflower would make the perfect background for a selfie
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- The temple on the top of Mt. Popa
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- Lots of monkeys at Mt. Popa!
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- View of Mt. Popa from a distance
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- Temple grounds on top of Mt. Popa
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- Young monk at village near Mt. Popa
Lovely place to visit….the captures are amazing.
Myanmar never fails to stun.
Bagan is one of my dream destinations to visit in Myanmar! This article has certainly injected me with new levels of enthusiasm for this ancient city!
Simon – thanks – can’t wait to go back 🙂
Chin – I hope you get a chance to visit – if I remember correctly you live in Penang? Should be an easy flight for you 🙂
Nice read about Bagan Dave, I was there last year, fell in love with it, I ended up staying two extra days just to visit more temples!
Have been planning to visit Myanmar since a couple of months now. Loved reading it throughout.
Thanks Giselle – with so many temples there one could spend weeks exploring!
Markus – hope you get the opportunity to visit soon 🙂
Wonderful place. Added Myanmar to my bucket list.
Dave, Bagan is temple mania! I was astounded by the number, variety and styles (and ages) of the temples. It’s almost hallucinatory. I didn’t make it up to Mt. Popa though—maybe next time.
Tom – yea, could spend years there and still not visit them all!
We ended up staying near old bagan last year – I’m already plotting my return trip to Myanamar.
Nice read about Bagan Dave, I was there last year, fell in love with it, I ended up staying two extra days just to visit more temples.
🙂
This place looks so beautiful and is on my bucket list. Thanks for sharing.
Nice post. I’m so ready for a change of pace from flat Florida.
The images are beautiful and it seems that the places you visited don’t look overrun by tourists.On our last visit to Thailand most of the temples were jam packed with tourists and it made it a bit difficult to relax and enjoy then. Hmm I’d not be too keen on having a monkey jump on me for food so I’d keep my eyes wide shut :). Burma is not our list but you have made me a bit curious about it.
Hi, I’m considering a solo trip here and have been in love with temple ruins since visiting Cambodia. How safe is it to travel as a female? Any thoughts or advice on this? I’m looking to do this in November, would it be a good time to go? Is a few days in Bagan long enough? Inle Lake looks interesting too. It all looks amazing!
Kimberly – it is extremely safe to visit these parts of Myanmar. My good friend has been numerous times on her own. At least a few days in Bagan is needed and if you make the trip, definitely spend at least a few days in Inle, perhaps a week is better 🙂
John – yes Myanmar will certainly give you a chance of pace from Florida!
Spanky – yes, parts of Bangkok especially can be so crowded – in particular at the more popular temples. At least in Bangkok there are hundreds of amazing smaller temples tourists have not yet discovered!