You open your eyes to find you are sitting in a cloud. The road is winding and as you pass each curve, the clouds gather, closer, until the fog outside the window is fresh and you can almost feel its powder settling into every crevice of your face. Occasionally flashes of green peaks, petals that curl upwards to grab onto the moist air. A comfortably slow conversation with your friend in the seat beside you, melancholic and then bright, like the … [Read more...]
A Latin America Sailing sensation
A bi-centennial celebration in Cartagena Ten tall sailing ships arriving one at a time, greeted by marching bands, native dancers and thongs of Colombians on the pier at Cartagena, Colombia provided the spectacular setting for the 200th anniversary celebration of South America's independence from Spain that began in May, 2010. The Colombians love to celebrate and the festivities will continue throughout the year with much singing and dancing … [Read more...]
Toss the camera and open your eyes. Tales from Peru
I just returned from watching the sun set on the sandstone cathedral in Arequipa's Plaza de Armas. I sat on the bench with ice cream cone in hand watching the trabajadores on their 3rd day of a hunger strike. Some hung on large crosses with steps to hold their weight and others lay on the ground in sleeping bags. This visual is a good entry point into the realities of South America. After so many trips to lesser developed countries I find … [Read more...]
Visiting Iguazu Falls
Iguazu Waterfalls are among the most amazing waterfalls on the planet. Do not underestimate the time you need here - allow at least 1/2 day for the Brazilian side and at minimum a full day for the Argentina side. These falls are spread between the Brazil and Argentina border and extend up the Rio Iguacu several miles. The only similar waterfalls in comparison are Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River between Zambia and Zimbabwe. The massive … [Read more...]
Architecture, Tango and Amazing Landscapes
It's hard to know where to start when describing Argentina: a country of vibrant cities that somehow find their way onto every backpacker's wish list, Argentina is also a place of incredible diversity and natural beauty. From tango clubs in charmingly chaotic Buenos Aires to breathtaking treks across the Perito Moreno Glacier, it's a truly beguiling travel destination. What's more, despite its modern (and often quite 'European') metropolises, … [Read more...]
Almost alone in the Peruvian High Andes
I've been asked by several people why I'm spending all my time in the Andes and not seeing the rest of this diverse country. In my email below I provide my answer. I warn you that it's long, so if you are too busy or not interested, please delete now! I just returned from an incredible adventure in the mountains, and I'm at a loss for words... Whenever I visit spectacular scenery I always fail to find words to express the fullness of what I … [Read more...]
La vida Argentina: Passion. Protests. Mate. Puppy Eyed Stares.
Greetings from Buenos Aires! Salutaciones de Nuestra Senora de Santa Maria del Buen Aire! Its a cold but bright sunshine filled day in Buenos Aires. Just finished sipping a cappucino at a classic cafe in La Recoleta where the elderly men still dress in suits and older women wear fur coats for their afternoon java jolt. Prior to coffee we were communing with the dead in the Recoleta cemetery. Our taxi driver had difficulty … [Read more...]
The Alternative to Inca Trail
It isn't lined with Inca stones, it is a rough mountain path, but in many ways it takes you to a much deeper, more real Peru. You may not see ruins three times a day but you go through two magnificent lost cities and some genuine untouched Quechua villages, not to mention the most incredible mountain views. What's more - this trail is not for everyone, it is for those who can take it. The trail takes you from Cachora village (three quarters of … [Read more...]
Greetings from Peru!!
Arrived in Lima and rested all day which was good. Saw the catacombs underground in the 16th century St Francis of Assisi Monastery. Many skulls staring upwards with individual bones all separated and arranged nicely in neat orderly piles. Took bus overnight to C. Huayash - the pass was about 14,000 feet which we hit at 1am. I was in bad shape by then - arrived at 6am into town and immediately found hostel and crashed. For 2 days was … [Read more...]
Planning Your First South America Vacation
South America presents a beautiful world with a wide range of unique landscapes. Choosing a place to visit is quite difficult with highlights like Machu Picchu, the Perito Moreno Glacier, regions like Patagonia, Pantanal and Amazon and cities like Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires. This article is written to serve as an introduction to some of the best places to visit in South America and how to combine the best highlights in one trip. Each … [Read more...]
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