Three Days in Tunisia

Dougga amphitheater

As of the end of 2025, Tunisia has seen a nearly ten-fold increase in tourism in the past few years. Primarily from Mediterranean cruises docking and dumping tourists for the day into the crowded downtown area, where they will visit to the markets and bazaars of the Souk (but won’t see much else.) But don’t knock it, the Souk is absolutely huge and you can easily get lost in the many narrow alleys. Tunis’ Souk also claims to house Africa’s two oldest cafes, dating back to around the year 1600. Check them out, they are worth seeing if you’re in the area.

In one of the many markets

For those who are coming just for the day and have the opportunity to visit the rest of Tunis, and Tunisia, there’s a lot more to see. We recently spent 3 days in and around Tunis, and I wish it would have been more. Tunisia is still developing, and it’s still off the beaten track. Tourists are starting to come, but far less than in other parts of the Mediterranean. Prices are far below many other countries – you can find incredibly good deals on fancy Airbnbs in the Carthage section of Tunis.

Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said is in the northern most section of Tunis, and is famous for it’s beautiful whitewashed houses lining the hillside over the Mediterranean Sea, with narrow streets and alleys perfectly suited for just meandering and getting lost in. The blue-accented doors, windows and roofs remind one of the hillsides of Greek towns, but without the flood of tourists or overpriced restaurants. Sidi Bou Said feels much more authentic. The vast majority of the people you’ll encounter are friendly locals who also enjoy wandering the alleys.

Desert trips into the Sahara are another possibility – with options to hire guides/camels for overnight treks, or take a day trip on a jeep excursion. I didn’t do either, but spoke with a lady who couldn’t stop raving about the fantastic overnight camping trip.

Ancient Carthage

My personal interest is in history and archeology, so I was eager to look at the fabled Carthaginian punic port, which was once one of the greatest military installations of the ancient world, before Rome destroyed it. It’s wild to me that today, even 2,300 years after Rome tore Carthage apart, the ancient port is still plainly visible, it’s original shape perfectly preserved. Though I have to say, the site itself is sparse and very little of it has been uncovered. I can’t help but think to myself that Cato the Elder’s ghost must be quite pleased with himself.

Roman ruins throughout Tunisia

Having said that, the Roman ruins in and around Tunisia are among the finest in the world that I’ve seen. Far better preserved than most of those in Rome itself. It’s not every day you hear of Romans in Tunisia, but they were there for many centuries. In my book, the Roman ruins of Tunisia are surpassed only by those in Istanbul and Pompeii.

The coliseum at El Jem is exceptional. And while it is not quite as large as its famous brethren in Rome, it is far more accessible because of the dearth of visitors. You can wait 1 hour in line for the coliseum in Rome, or you can hire an archeologist guide to drive you 1.5 hours from Tunis to El Jem and give you a private tour like you’ve never imagined.

Other absolutely incredible Roman sites are the ruins at Dougga and at Simith. These ancient cities are marvels to behold. You can walk their ancient streets, enter the town’s baths and many homes (most of which are underground to avoid the extreme heat), marvel at the incredible floor mosaics (check out the original Mona Lisa!) and experience the insane acoustics of their their theaters. In both cases, what stands out is the absolute lack of tourists. You’re not crowding among and competing with thousands of others – you literally have the place to yourself as your friendly trained archeologist walks you through what life was like for the Romans who occupied Tunisia until the 7th century, when Arab armies and the Muslim conquest swept over North Africa.

Other observations

Speaking of Arabs, Tunisia is made up of Arabs and Berbers (the original inhabitants). As things go, Tunis is pretty metropolitan, with a wide mix of people ranging from conservatives dressed in traditional Islamic garbs and hijabs to women in mini skirts and baring their shoulders. They intermingle freely, and no one seems to care much. Things might be more conservative in the countryside, but in metropolitan Tunis, it’s a pretty chill atmosphere. Coffee and pastries are commonly served in bars, as is alcohol. What really surprised me though is that pork was widely available, ranging from meals in restaurants to a pork section at the deli. For a muslim country, I was not expecting this.

Tunisia travel protip

Use either the Yassir or the InDrive apps for taxis. You still pay cash, but the pricing is transparent and locked in. That way, you avoid the usual taxi upcharge/scams aimed at tourists. Both apps available in English.

Tunisia is generally safe, apart from perhaps the pickpockets who will try to have their way with your belongings. Tunisia suffered from some significant terrorist attacks in the past, but it has been fairly quiet in the past decade. A few parts of the country near Libya and Algeria are still no-go zones for tourists. But there’s not much there to see anyways. And otherwise, it’s a generally safe country to visit. So if you’re in the Mediterranean region, maybe give it a consideration. It’s a quick hop on a commuter plane from many cities in Italy, France or Spain.