In Paris’s Muslim quarter, Barbés Rochechouart, John M. Edwards finds ho-hum Christmas cheer, but no champagne or beer. . . . Back when I lived in Paris, one of the most comically incongruous things I saw as a temporary expat was a pathetic Pere Noel with a guelle de bois (“face of wood” = hangover) peeing in the snow, with an excessively painful grin, on the legendary Boulevard St. Germain (namedropped ad infinitum in Hemingway’s elegy to the … [Read more...]
Peter Greenberg, The Travel Detective
Peter Greenberg is one of America's foremost travel correspondents and travel experts. It is admirable what he has accomplished and done for consumers (as well as his valuable contributions within the travel industry) during the past few decades. With someone who logs 400,000 airline miles a year, he maintains a rigorous schedule that would leave most people gasping for air! He has taken time out of this busy schedule to answer a few … [Read more...]
River Gods: Confessions of a Grand Canyon Guide
It all began, for me, at a meeting of the Canoe Cruisers Association, the Washington, D.C. chapter. In the midst of the button-down capital there is an underground of cutoffs and t-shirts that each weekend assembles by the banks of some Shenandoah or Appalachia river to rake the whitewater with paddles. A recent high school graduate searching for life’s passion, I joined up at the urging of my old Scout leader, and was immediately hooked. My … [Read more...]
The Diving Bell and the Butterfly by Jean-Dominique Bauby
Imagine writing a book when your body is entirely paralyzed except for your left eye lid - the other eye being stitched shut. Author Bauby wrote this entire book by blinking - using a special alphabet that was devised for him - he chose each letter, one at a time slowly forming words, then sentences. Rendered almost entirely rigid by a stroke at age 43 in 1995, he left a world of fashion (he was editor of the French Elle) and entered a … [Read more...]
Grand dame hotels are two New England favorites
Elegant, old, stately and welcoming, they are perched high on bluffs overlooking the sea, two New England grand dame hotels with unique identities and charms all their own, especially cozy in the wintry off season when it’s far less crowded. Wentworth by the Sea in New Castle, N.H., and Harbor View Hotel in Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard, off the coast of Massachusetts, the latter an icon on the Vineyard since 1891, the former since 1874, each … [Read more...]
East Coast Road Trippin’, Australia
If you’ve been thinking about doing a road trip to see the many amazing sites of this great country, there’s one service I’d recommend you take a look at. DriveNow offer a one-way campervan relocation service; where rental companies decide to move their campervans to a different state to accommodate to greater demand in that area due to big events or seasonal changes they, through Drive Now, give the general public an opportunity to relocate … [Read more...]
A Thai New Years in our Village
As with most New Years Eve days we spend much of the day shopping for our big meal in the evening - where family and friends gather - pulling into one of the nearby village houses on motorbikes, walking or by car. First we stop at the huge Tesco Lotus that popped up near the Industrial park several years ago. Employees are stationed out front wrapping hundreds of packages from shoppers. Our budget has gone up this year - instead of 200 baht we … [Read more...]
Praying for Rain on Patmos
John M. Edwards plans to tour the cave where St. John wrote the Bible’s “Book of Revelations” on an idyllic Greek island called Patmos. . . . On the little-known island of “Arki” near Patmos, Greece, four travelers stared at the boat docking under a cliff-shrouded curl of surf and sand resembling a sneer. “Smugglers!” my new friend Leo, an Argentine of Italian descent and owner of a “finca” in Welsh Patagonia, exclaimed. All of us … [Read more...]
Biscuits, Booze, and Bodies – 36 Hours in the Florida Keys
Normally, I'm not big on cocktails before 10am. But when we blearily wandered in at 8am to the Blue Heaven, one of Key West’s signature restaurants, that’s what our server suggested. Sitting in the crazy-quilt courtyard, with its rustic artwork and scurrying chickens, looking up at the former bordello on the second-floor, and knocking back some booze seemed in keeping with all things Keys. I opted for the pancakes, which I found just as … [Read more...]
Village Updates, Thailand
We have been infested with pigeons! They are nesting all over our roof - any crevice or corner is fair game. We've moved out a number of nests - found a number of eggs and covered any open areas on the roof with some sort of thorny plant material to discourage future nesting. Still they flock to our roof at all hours of the day and night. The scratching continues even in the early morning. Last night at 3am I was awakened dramatically by a … [Read more...]
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