A friend and I discovered a sign indicating 'restaurant' near our eco lodge, a metal shack located behind the owners home. An elderly woman who we call grandmum lives there with her husband and her son. She is a wiry and energetic woman who is always happy to see us; for some reason, there are never any other guests. Sometimes her dog Lola comes running out; she recently suffered an injury, a nasty claw mark down her back resulting from a fight … [Read more...]
Looking for Gold in Santa Fe de Antioquia, Colombia
My first introduction to gold mining in Colombia was through stories told years ago by a friend of the family. His father had been mining in the country sometime in the 1920s and hit it rich. He brought the gold back with him to the states by ship. But partway into his journey he began to suffer from yellow fever and probably malaria which left him delirious. His findings were stolen from him on the ship, leaving only a few nuggets in his … [Read more...]
The Noisiest Place I’ve Ever Stayed At
In choosing the title for this post, one would think the noisiest place I ever stayed at would be in a city somewhere, with a room above a nightclub or in a part of town featuring endless partying. But not so, in actuality this not-so distinguished award goes to a rural located eco /glamping lodge on the outskirts of charming Santa Fe de Antioquia in Colombia (about a 90 minute drive from Medellin). I have never stayed at such a noisy place in … [Read more...]
Searching for the Soul of Cartagena, Colombia
Darkness has fallen in Cartagena and the buzzing sounds of the motor bikes with their bright lights passing constantly are rattling my senses. I am now wandering the busy streets searching for the soul of this city. I'm pretty sure I've found it inside the city walls of old Cartagena. I soon spot paintings of people smoking cigars hanging on the walls inside a building; the interior immediately appeals to me from the curb so I enter the dimly lit … [Read more...]
Mo’orea Highlights, French Polynesia
Mo’orea (Moorea) is only 30-45 minutes from the port in Papeete via ferry. And the port is only 10 minutes from FAA, Papeete's airport. Despite being so close, this island feels world's away from the often busy streets of Papeete. Need Internet access upon landing at the Moorea port? A Vodafone phone shop is within a short walk of the ferry terminal - located next to the gas station. SIM cards plus data plans can be purchased here. Often … [Read more...]
A Crazy Stop in La Paz, Boliva
Upon arriving in South America I entered a very familiar airport, Jorge Chavez International Airport. I lingered in Lima for a refreshing shower in the hotel directly across from the airport. Walked back to the departures terminal and tried to sleep for a few hours on the hard floor. Loud music playing at 130am followed by staff cleaning the floors. No sleep tonight. Boarded next flight. Arrived in Cuzco - exited the airport with just enough time … [Read more...]
Exploring Paramaribo, Suriname the Fun Way!
After a nearly 13 hour car + van ride from Georgetown in Guyana which began at 4am and included a 4 hour border crossing (slow ferry a big part of this), I arrived in Paramaribo in the late afternoon. Exhausted after eating only an energy bar I found tucked away in my backpack given to me weeks ago by Jacki Ueng I checked into the Guesthouse Zin & Grand Cafe. For only $23/night it included a private room with AC and use of their pool. I soon … [Read more...]
An Interesting Mix of Activities & Distractions in Guyana, South America
The final touchdown could not come soon enough. 39 hours prior I left my place in California for the airport at 430am. After a night in Miami (part of which involved nearly a 2 hour drive to go 3.1 miles from the airport - you think Los Angeles traffic is horrendous, think again), I finally arrived in Guyana. Most people I told prior to my trip that I was going to Guyana greeted me with a blank stare. The few older folks correctly equated Guyana … [Read more...]
Cruising the Beagle Channel on the Paludine, Ushuaia Argentina
I wandered into one of the small tour operator huts down by the harbour in Ushuaia this afternoon to escape the rain and the cold. After inquiring about one of their tours I was soon booked for the next morning - a sailing trip through the Beagle Channel on the Paludine. Allowing only 8 people maximum on board, these sailing tours are intimate and a great way to see the wildlife. After an hour drive on both pavement and a graded dirt road we … [Read more...]
Exploring Ushuaia, El Fin Del Mundo
After four days in a row on a plane, two of which were overnight flights I have reached El Fin del Mundo, Ushuaia - the world's southernmost city. Flying over Tierra del Fuego, we were treated to spectacularly clear views of the jagged mountains, glaciers and lakes - ultimately reaching the bays near Ushuaia and dropping into the small airport on a nearly cloudless day. My visual research prior to this trip indicated Ushuaia is rarely clear … [Read more...]